The Underbelly

Every city has them. The places where vices live. In Copan, this is it. A bunch of nondescript, deserted juice stands and shacks you wouldn't look twice at during the day. But at night. Watch out.

When I first arrived here, green as grass, Rudy, the man of the house in my first family warned, "Don't go south more than two blocks. "It isn't safe," he said. So I stayed well clear. But I didn't know exactly what from.

I spent most of the day today with Yarely, my last week's instructor. She'll be another one of my Skype teachers when I arrive home. She has a degree in education and a bunch of certificates and nails my language problems.

Employment here is at an unimaginable 40 percent and with only part time employment, Yarely is looking for other options. So together we created a Master Team of people who can help her move forward. And we walked through the Red Light District, which, during the day isn't so scary after all.

The barrio where the mayor and Yarely live is beautiful and it was here all along. It just goes to show you that beauty is all around us. We just have to find it.

the go to place for drugs, prostitutes and booze

Blogsy is giving me grief again. So photos of prostitute havens are mixed up with a doctor's home in a beautiful area and the Easter Sunday procession of the resurrection. Ah well. All life is connected.

 

 

 

 

Hasta Manana

busy by night

waiting for a rider

owned by drug lord who went bust

elegant water tank

Yarely

street where folks exercise

small procession because of problems with the priest transfer

Easter Sunday procession

Juice by day. Booze by night.

doctor's house

 

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Vistas From Here

I'd understand if you might wonder how I could be so happy with such a plain room. If I could have taken a photo of the last closet I was in I would have. But even a wide angle wouldn't have dressed it up.This room has a small flat sceen TV, a bedside lamp, a clock and a fan. Bliss.

a room with a view

outside my door

down the hill

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The semi mansion below has been converted into a school. It's the most lovely building visible in the town.

Tomorrow I'm going to visit an area with enormous Ceiba trees. Today was the first day of relaxation since arriving here almost three weeks ago. Things are starting to wind down, it seems. The bus for San Pedro on Tuesday leaves at 5:15 am -- will be back in TO at 11:55 p.m. Lots of time for reflections.

 

I can't believe I'm still taking pictures of roosters. But I'm waking up even now with their "singing", which is what they do here -- usually around 3:15 a.m. I thought I'd recognized the male from the female, having had so much listening practice. But no.

Some people say that males call females and females call other females and that the guys don't call each other at all. Other people say that the females only call out when they are laying eggs. I bet some of you know.

more noisy characters

At the moment I'm picking ants from my PJs. I hung them on the line earlier today, brought them in and then noticed masses of black moving dots. Ugh.

Hasta pronto.

 

 

 

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Julio Escoto, Honduran Writer

The family having el amuerzo not far from my table the other day fascinated me for some reason. Their conversation was animated. They spoke Spanish. But because we were in a tourist restaurant, I figured they weren't from here.

There were five at the table, two couples: an older couple and a younger with their daughter. The younger woman smiled as she passed on her way out. So I asked her where they were from. "San Salvador", she said. We chatted a little. Then, as her father passed my table, he gave me a literary magazine, Imaginación. "I wrote this," he said. "It's for you."

I couldn't have been more surprised or curious. Who was this man? So I did some research and then sent an email to the contact address. A couple of days later, I received a reply. "Yes, I'm the guy," he said. "My wife and I are here for another couple of days. Why don't we get together?" (all in Spanish.)

So that's how I found myself last night sharing wine with Julio Escoto, a well known Honduran, novelist, short story teller and essayist and his wife, a former ballerina who now owns a ballet school.

From Book Rags

"The works of Julio Escoto comprise one of the most vital segments of Honduran fiction during the last three decades of the twentieth century. His novels and short stories have been a regular focus of attention for critics and have inspired countless young writers.

Living in a country that continues to be wracked with political, economic, and class turmoil, Escoto consistently proposes through his writings that changes in society begin with changes in individuals.

His work reveals the two sides--constructive and destructive--of human nature. Through a variety of techniques, themes, voices, characters, periods, and events, Escoto's writings continually explore the question of identity--of the individual Honduran, of Honduras as a nation, and of Hondurans as Latin Americans.

Identity to Escoto is not an abstract concept but a journey that must be made with courage and honesty, a quest in which the seeker must be prepared to confront and overcome his [own demons.]"

 

What a treat it was to talk with such a lovely couple!

Next post. "Vistas from Here"

 

 

 

 

 

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Rugs Made of Wood

Yesterday was Good Friday here and just as artisans create colourful sand mandalas during Dashain in Nepal, here they create rugs made of small wood chips. Artists begin the work Thursday evening, working through the night for completion on Good Friday morning.

In the photos below, you'll see the rug's bright colours and also the Catholic procession of the Crucifixion. This year Catholic attendance was down, because just recently the Cardinal arranged for the transfer of the local priest, which is a normal occurance.

However, many of the congregation liked the current priest and were angered at the change. There was a big fracas and with sticks and some stones (well schooled in conflict resolution they were), a group of Catholic protesters barred access to the church. So the church was closed for three weeks until the Cardinal came to facilitate the transfer. Some Catholics have become Protestant and some are staying well clear of the church.

Tomorrow I'll introduce you to a well known Hondurean author and his wife, a ballerina, with whom I spent time this evening.

 

Maya pattern

 

painted wood chips

 

it's a bird and no I don't take sugar

 

 

the wood chips

 

the procession

 

 

favourite flower -- open this time

I'm moving to a new room today, one with a view. Can't hardly turn around in this one.

Hasta mas tarde

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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La Casa de Julia

It's as good as it gets. Even though Honduras is poor, Julia and her husband saved to buy land in the country just outside Copan. They built their lovely home and then planted trees and flowers. Birds sing and the rooster crows.

just outside the house

To get to the house from town is a 15 minute walk on a rutted path -- by taxi, a tooth shattering 20 minutes because there's a river in the way.

So Julia, master of problem solving, decided to gather forces and money to build two bridges. One is completed and all the materials are purchased for the second -- with no government assistance. A group of women fund raised for the project and a number of men volunteered their time for the construction.

This is Julia on the path leading to the site of the second bridge. It's a mind boggling project.

Julia

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

noisy character

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

from the patio

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tomorrow is Good Friday. Artisans create colourful designs on the streets. I hope I can catch some for you.

 

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Maya Nut

The Maya planted the Breadnut over two thousand years ago. It became a staple of the Maya diet. By most accounts, it nearly killed the people too -- especially children. While it's high in vitamins, fiber and antioxidents, it has almost no nutritional value. Because they mixed the nuts with corn with more of the former than the latter, the Maya became malnourished and vulnerable to all sorts of conditions. It is often called "the famine food" now.

Breadnut

stelae

 

 

Maya dates

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heiroglyphic Stairway

 

This stairway is the longest Maya text found so far, giving the life and times of Copan rulers. Beneath, researchers found other structures and amazing pieces of art. It was completed in 756 AD by ruler number 15, K'ak' Yipyaj Chan K'awiil. Archeologists discovered him in his tomb along with jade, ceramic censers, a flint knife and other ceremonial objects involved with bloodletting.

The Stairway is protected from the climate by a tarp now. But the government is investing other materials that are more durable and pleasing to the eye.

In a few minutes, I'm leaving to visit the home of my instructor. I'm so pleased she's invited me. I've seen three homes so far. Julia is a community leader and standing up to the men who insist on dominating the community even though they are not as educated as she is.

During one heated argument with them over the management of the community's water supply, she said to them, "Who gave birth to you and raised you, your mother or your father?" They had no reply. But they still simmer and her mother-in-law isn't speaking with her.

Hasta pronto

 

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After Two Weeks

I'm completely over Sunday's dehydration problems now. It was 40 degrees here that day and even all the locals were complaining. It actually took me a couple of days to sort myself out. How folks in poor countries live in refugee camp tents without much water or trees for protection is beyond me.

I'm in a new place with a view, but a small room without. I'm trying to negociate a room change and will keep at it because I'm tripping over myself in this school rented accomodation. I guess my young years of flexibility have long changed.

Over the last two weeks, I've been asking myself, 'How Did this Country Get to Be in Such a Muddle?' Why is it so poor? What makes one country more poor than another? Why are San Salvador, Guatemala and Costa Rica much better off than Honduras? They have the same earth.

An American woman who came here five years ago to build schools and infrastructure in various mountain villages where infant mortality and starvation is high, education and medical care non existent, is asking herself now, "At what point are we enabling people to simply accept handouts?"

Tons of non profit organizations, missions and church groups as well as do-gooders come here. They build schools, water systems, clinics and so forth and they leave Hondurans with a plan in place. Then not so long after the orgs have left, things fall apart, either because people here are accustomed to hand outs, or because they lack the education and intelligence to know that there is a better life out there.

The American woman is now building a clinic in Guatamala (very close to here) where the people are involved and working hard to help. So from what I'm hearing, there are fundamental differences in Central American mentalities.

I'm in a restaurant now sitting across from a group of Vanvouver high school students from "Urban Promise," a missionary group that is helping with after school programs here. The academy's goal is twofold: to help build infrastructure and to promote the ministry. There are lots of opportunties for a "legs up" here. Many have strings attached.

Tonight I had dinner with an educated Honduran couple. The husband said that Hondurans are lazy, that in the 70s people immigrated here from the Middle East, did well for themselves and gradually became involved with governing. That's when the corruption began, he said. Later the mafia arrived and for sure there are no taxes coming from that direction. There are smart, educated people here. But there is also a cultural mentality for maintaining the status quo.

At some point in the past, the media began to tell people that they were lazy and so they believed it. This "blue" rightest government has been in for three years. External research shows a recent slippage in all areas -- health, education, jobs, production, human rights, female secondary school education and an increase in violence. In fact, an American organization The Millennium Challenge Corporation, has withdraw assitance for Honduras four times in a row for lack of good governance, transparency, evaluation and accountability. So things are truly in a mess here. There are a lot of wonderful Hondurans. There are also a lot who don't care.

The government: the judiciary, the legislative and executive branches, the military and the police, both national and local, are in the pay of the country's capitalists. During elections, the capitalists also purchase votes from poor Guatemalans who are happy to comply.

Narcos get whatever services they want. The middle class and poor don't. And if you don't belong to the Blue party, you don't receive anything for sure. But, there are improvements and things are gradually changing. People here are starting to open their eyes and march with their feet.

view from the balcony

 

 

El Sapo

 

 

 

Back to the Ruins

I know I promised no more gore and this isn't gore. But do you remember The Sapos, The Frogs, that this frog area was one of fertility? Well I just found out that it was much more than that. It was a birthing centre. And guess where the babies were born? Right on top of the stone frogs. Geez.

Aged One

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copan Ruinas uses this stone head in its promotional material. It's in good shape, despite the years. Inside the ruin grounds, there are several of these incredible Ceiba Trees. Because they can grow to 230 feet, the Maya believed that they connected the underworld with the sky.

connecting the terrestial with the celestial

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cieba Tree

 

 

 

We all want to know why civilizations crash. Not all of Copán's rulers provided strong leadership for the people. The Maya had no sense of sustainable growth: as the city grew in size and population, they cut away deeper and deeper into the jungle, with a slash-and-burn agricultural methods resulting in poorer crops each year. I've been watching this same sort of thing happening south of us Brampton Ontario for thirty years.

The Maya aristocrats here didn't use their land efficiently either. They chose to build their homes on land near the Copán River and in doing so eliminated use of the best land for farming. By 850AD the population of Copán had risen to 20,000 and the valley could hardly provide for so many. This happened not only in Copán, but in other Maya city-states. The Maya were victims of their own success.

Towards the last part of the Classical Era around 850 AD or so, the people had cut down most of the trees to make lime for temple stuccoing. Eventually, having no lime, they added mud to the concrete material they had been using for construction. But rains quickly eroded this inferior material, allowing tree roots to take hold. Deforestation led to drought and drought to starvation, two major factors in Maya downfall.

trees and temples all ajumble -- just as in Anchor Wat

 

 

 

 

in genuflection

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It's amazing how Forensic scientists are able to discover diseases in people who lived more than a thousand years ago. A great percentage of bodies analyzed in the burial site below were children under age two. The adults had many medical conditions, among them, Osteoporosis and Hepatitis. That latter was caused by tattooing. In Maya times, the skin was cut in a decorative way, the cut was filled with earth and pressed upon by the tattooer's hands. It's believed that this was how Hepatitis spread.

burial area

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The elite played and watched in the Ball Court. Here Maya warriors played a sacred and fierce ball game filled with religious symbolism. In and archeological museum last year in Mexico City, I read that that winner was sacrificed. Not much of an inducement to win, you wouldn't think. But my guide this year said it was probably the loser who was the victim.

 

Ball Court

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have a look at the next blog for stelae and why people died from eating the bread nut.

A peek ahead to the stelae. Archaeologists have discovered and translated many of these monolithic monuments . But their purpose is still not known. They might have been funerary monuments or have been used to mark the end of a time period, or to pay tribute to the gods that reigned over that time period.

Bye for now. I'm having a horrible time with Blogsy. See you soon. Be well and good night.

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