"Because Campeche is on the coast, it was constantly invaded by pirates and British privateers. It wasn't able to easily establish itself later. But Merida is inland and so early on it had trading opportunities and is better off now," he said.
Late yesterday afternoon while exploring the Merida Zocalo, organ music drew us into the cathedral -- and what a church it is! The structure (and the music) soar to the heavens. As I sat in the gleaming wooden pews I thought -- what a gift to be here in this amazing cathedral listening to music that pulls at your heartstrings. Later on we stopped at a cultural centre to look at a Frieda Kahlo poster advertising a woman's rights conference being held today. Tonight we're going to the Zocala for a Yucatan song and dance performance -- tomorrow night to a trio ensemble performance.
This evening we're tuckered again after walking around town, trying to squeeze in as much as possible. I suppose it was a good thing that many museums are closed on Monday. So we had more time to see Mexican artist Fernando Castro Pacheco's 27 vividly colourful murals in the Governor's Palace. These moveable murals show what many believe was the reality of life for the Maya in the Yucatan after the Spanish conquest as well as images and myths of the tribes in the region. Castro Pacheo's paintings also depict scenes of work and torture under the Spanish colonizers.
You'll see a photo of a Mayan man emerging from an ear of maize as described in the Popol Vul, the sacred book of the Maya. Since ancient times maize has been the most important Maya food. The god of maize is the most important of the Maya gods. How horribly ironic, then, that the indigenous people now have to purchase their corn from Monsanto! For these people each kernel of corn is considered sacred because it contains the power to sustain man and represents the cycle of birth, life, death, and rebirth. Not anymore.
One of the biggest learnings I'm having during these travels is what a mess we've made of things. A guest asked the B & B owner why Mexicans were so poor. He said, "Because North America has robbed them." This is true in so many ways. Campeche is the safest state in Mexico. But the northern states closest to the US aren't safe because of the drug wars created by our dependance on drugs.
Sorry. This is a downer subject. We know all about this stuff. So I'm not going to talk about it anymore.
You'll see photos taken around Merida today, the birth from corn mural and the cathedral with the 80 pipe organ.
We've visited seven cities and seven states so far -- what an amazing headful of sights, sounds and thoughts we are carrying back home with us.
I'll continue this blog at home, writing about my experiences in Nepal and of our flights in CFUXY to B.C. and the Yukon. Tons of photos for you still to see.
Off to the Mayan ruins of Uxmal tomorrow. We have eaten in lots of restaurants with no stomach problems so far (We had injections to fight Ecoli before leaving home). But I got 16 bug bites in Campeche (I think that's what they are) that are driving me a bit nuts. Don't know how the little buggers bit me where they did.
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