Culture is supported by the government with free concerts several times a week. Amazing. Visiting Uxmal today was almost a last minute decision but a lucky one because the ruins are in such good shape -- much better than those of Palenque and a lot more interesting. In the photos you'll see bas reliefs of snakes, birds, turtles, flowers, jaguars and rain gods covering the massive stone walls. Mayan gods are mostly connected to the natural world -- with weather, power and fertility.
It's hard to imagine all these stone walls painted in vibrant colors as they were way back then. The lighter coloured pieces are restorations. I felt a sense of awe walking amongst jumbles of carved ancient rock on the ground where it had tumbled hundreds of years ago.
I learned a little more about Mayan cosmetic practices today. I mentioned cone heads which is referred to as forehead flattening. It was wax beads that were dangled between babies eyes to make them beautifully crossed. Men and women cut themselves to create lovely scars and the elites sharpened their teeth to points, making small dents in order to insert Jade and Pyrite that symbolized wealth and beauty.
Ball games were their favourite sport. But these games were serious affairs often ending in death. The players had to try to keep a hard rubber ball in the air without using their hands, heads or feet. The game was often used to settle disputes between rival communities. I've heard from several guides that either the winning or losing team captain was executed. So the jury is out on that piece of information. What a shame that most Mayan writing was destroyed.
Uxmul site was the capital city of the then Puuc region and most of the buildings were constructed between 875 and 900 CE. Only 50 years after this intense building period the people left for other areas.
Along with photos of the ruins, I'm including a shot of traditional dancers in the park from last night.
Upcoming blogs -- Mexican food and sleep. On to Cancun tomorrow by bus.
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