Happy New Year From Oaxaca

In this photo, taken at the bus station in Huatulo Saturday morning, we are a ton friskier than when we arrived in Oaxaca after 9.5 hours on curvy, mountainous roads. We thought the route was straight north, a doable 6 hours. But first class buses don't go north. 

They go way west, then north, three times the distance. Geez. We zig zagged up and down and around steep bends. No guards rails and an aggressive driver on the turns. Bob said just before we boarded the bus, "I shouldn't mention this, but it's a 35 minute flight to Oaxaca from here."

This is high season and the place is humming -- not at all like the almost sedate city we visited almost two years ago. It's as though the rest of Mexico dumped itself in here for Christmas and New Years. People are laughing, playing and loving. We recovered from the bus ride and shook ourselves into place. 

Long narrow balloons shoot into the air around the Zocalo or central square, parades file by, women dance by with baskets of flowers on their heads, musicians play guitars, pipes and xylophones and rockets fire off without warning.

But amidst all this celebrating, dance and light is a dark and somber story and as revellers sip their beer and wine in Zocalo restaurants ringing the central park, the families and friends of 43 missing students occupy the park's centre, protesting the loss of their loved ones.

    Tents fill the Zocalo where people sauntered and lovers embraced.

What happened is that on September 26, this year, 43 male students from a rural teachers' college went missing in Iguala, Guerrero, Mexico. The offical report says the students were protesting and on their way by bus to a conference led by the mayor's wife. Apparently, local police intercepted the buses, kidnapped the students, handed over to the local Guerreros Unidos ("United Warriors") crime syndicate and were killed.

Mexican authorities believe Iguala's mayor and his wife were the masterminds of the abduction. The two, as well as the local police chief fled and were later arrested. The issue of the missing students and the disappearance of more than 23 000 people over the last years had led to attacks on government buildings, and the resignation of the Governor of Guerrero. 

It's the biggest political and public security scandal the Mexican President has faced. Protests are nationwide and condemnation international. The security presense here is massive -- weapons and riot gear.

So being here is a shock to the system and a paradox. We are surprised by the crowds, excited by the energy and saddened by the kidnappings (as we are by our own missing aboriginal women). If we were in Caledon, we'd see turkeys wandering around the lawn and the air would be quiet. 

It's wonderful spending the holidays with Susan el al and getting in touch with you again.

 Here are some faces from the parade wishing you a happy new year.

More to follow. Be well.