Tuesday, December 30, 2014

Happy New Year From Oaxaca



In this photo, taken at the bus station in Huatulo Saturday morning, we are a ton friskier than when we arrived in Oaxaca after 9.5 hours on curvy, mountainous roads. We thought the route was straight north, a doable 6 hours. But first class buses don't go north. 



They go way west, then north, three times the distance. Geez. We zig zagged up and down and around steep bends. No guards rails and an aggressive driver on the turns. Bob said just before we boarded the bus, "I shouldn't mention this, but it's a 35 minute flight to Oaxaca from here."

This is high season and the place is humming -- not at all like the almost sedate city we visited almost two years ago. It's as though the rest of Mexico dumped itself in here for Christmas and New Years. People are laughing, playing and loving. We recovered from the bus ride and shook ourselves into place. 


Long narrow balloons shoot into the air around the Zocalo or central square, parades file by, women dance by with baskets of flowers on their heads, musicians play guitars, pipes and xylophones and rockets fire off without warning.





But amidst all this celebrating, dance and light is a dark and somber story and as revellers sip their beer and wine in Zocalo restaurants ringing the central park, the families and friends of 43 missing students occupy the park's centre, protesting the loss of their loved ones.


    Tents fill the Zocalo where people sauntered and lovers embraced.



What happened is that on September 26, this year, 43 male students from a rural teachers' college went missing in Iguala, Guerrero, Mexico. The offical report says the students were protesting and on their way by bus to a conference led by the mayor's wife. Apparently, local police intercepted the buses, kidnapped the students, handed over to the local Guerreros Unidos ("United Warriors") crime syndicate and were killed.

Mexican authorities believe Iguala's mayor and his wife were the masterminds of the abduction. The two, as well as the local police chief fled and were later arrested. The issue of the missing students and the disappearance of more than 23 000 people over the last years had led to attacks on government buildings, and the resignation of the Governor of Guerrero. 

It's the biggest political and public security scandal the Mexican President has faced. Protests are nationwide and condemnation international. The security presense here is massive -- weapons and riot gear.

So being here is a shock to the system and a paradox. We are surprised by the crowds, excited by the energy and saddened by the kidnappings (as we are by our own missing aboriginal women). If we were in Caledon, we'd see turkeys wandering around the lawn and the air would be quiet. 

It's wonderful spending the holidays with Susan el al and getting in touch with you again.

 Here are some faces from the parade wishing you a happy new year.




More to follow. Be well.









Wednesday, December 24, 2014

Merry Christmas Eve in Photos

From Huatulco to Your Festive Home on Christmas --

Best thoughts from all of us! 


            Susan,  Max and Kai


                    Under the falls


                      Mermaid Susan.








                    A last minute shot.








A Mexican Success Story


Chiara and Alfredo met here in Huatulco just two years ago. Chiara is Sicilian and, having spent time in London, speaks English with subtle British, Italian and Mexican accents. Alfredo is Mexican and having lived in the US, speaks excellent English. 

Chiara and Alfredo

Their travels, entrepreneurialship and a certain savvy, owe to their success. Chiara was already running a small ice cream restaurant, Las Primas, when they met. Together they expanded to include breakfast and lunch. Alfredo also owns a beach restaurant in one of the nine bays and within two weeks they will open a bar down the street from Las Primas.


Chiara with daughter Isabella

Chiara will be breastfeeding their six month daughter, Isabella, one moment and off for supplies on a motorscooter the next. They always have time to chat, are calm and super organized. Having a nanny helps for sure. But our first child threw us a curve ball for the first few months. I would have become unhinged with three businesses to operate and a home to keep up as well.

Cacalutia Bay and Beach

Yesterday afternoon we took a 40 minute ride in a covered boat to a secluded area with reefs, rocks and a pristine beach. The fish were exquisite, brilliant blues with bits of subtle orange. We saw eels and pencil fish. Soon I'll send some photos taken with Alan's underwater camera. 

The boat anchored a distance from the reefs so we could jump off,  then later on pulled anchor and motored closer to the beach so we could get back on.

Today I feel battered and stiff because the boat had no ladder, so after we anchored, we jumped off the side with our gear. After snorkling around the reefs, we swam to the beach against the current (no small feat). There was a strong undercurrent and the wind made for tough swimming.

Getting onto the beach was a test of endurance because of the undertow. You had to paddle fast like there was no tomorrow, get your feet firmly on the bottom and try to beach yourself before the next wave. Bob was washed in and out forever. I kind of half crawled in with Susan's help.

The boat had motored over closer to the beach for easier "boarding". That was an operation and a half. To get back on the boat, you kind of pulled up, then flopped and rolled as the boat tipped low to one side in the trough of a wave. You had to be super fast before the next wave tipped the boat way back up again. Gads.

Wishing you a wonderful Christmas Eve from all the Noppes. I'll be in touch again soon.





Tuesday, December 23, 2014

En Route to the Coffee Plantation

Hi Family and Friends

It's good to connect with you again. Things have been sort of tumultuous and busy over the last few days mostly because there are six of us travelling together, all with our own preferences. We were seven while my sister Janet was visiting over the last three days -- a treat because we get together rarely.



Janet flew here from Oaxaca where she's been studying Spanish for the last month. She flew in the cockpit with the captain -- I suppose they let her because she has her commercial and instructor's ratings and  4 000 +  hours flight time.

My luggage apparently danced back and forth between Mexico City and Oaxaca until finally it finally arrived at the hotel three days into our trip. I discovered that you can live with almost nothing for a few days and life is so simple when you have nothing! 

We're very much oddities here, we white ones. There are tourists, but they are all fluent in Spanish, have darker skins and fit in. We stick out -- especially Max and Kai because most kids are in school. Since they are homeschooled, their travel schedules are flexible.

People are extremely friendly and accomodating and I sense that it's not because we bring money to town. They are just that way. Generally people aren't poor, although six and seven year old barefooted indigeonous children sell their wares in the park long after the sun has set. I looked at a ragged little girl last evening and wondered what the future would hold for her.

To be honest, I don't think we are a whole lot better off at home with all our devices and money. People hang out a lot with friends and family here. Lifestyle is a ton slower and less stressed.


The road to the coffee plantation up high was windy, rocky, curvy and the vans tires almost flat.
Max helped the driver change a tire by a poor rural home.

The cute little boys who live at the home.

Their home.

I bet your bathroom is lovelier than this.

Janet at the waterfall. Because this falls was so remote, we had it almost to ourselves.


Susan jumping. I wasn't so brave.

This tree is called The Pregnant Tree because of the way the roots grew around the stone.


Mexican style barometer. Someone raises or lowers the stone to mark the conditions.


Coffee beans grow high on almost inaccessible mountains slopes. In the centre of the red berries is a soft, white, slippery coffee bean. The berries are picked, beans removed, dried in the sun and sorted. Eventually they are roasted.


An old coffee grinder.


Tucked away in a forest.

  

This is a ball park, at this particular site always resulting in a sacrifice.  At the recently discovered archaeological site of Rio Copalita Bocana, dating back to 900 A. C. to 1000 AD, researchers are beginning to restore the old city.


The Mixtas and Zapotecas choose a wonderful area for their temples and daily life. This is the view from the top.


An ocean of fish for the indigineous people 1000 years ago.


Because of the Rio Copalito Bocana, they had fresh water too.

Off to the Beach


Janet keeping Kai warm.

After the site, we snorkeled at Entrega, one of Hualtulco's nine bays.

Very soon, I'll wish you a very Merry Christmas, walk out the door in shorts and pinch myself
 that it is indeed December 25th. Bob and I have never been away from cold and snow during the  holiday season. Enjoy your preparations. We are thinking of you.


Thursday, December 18, 2014

The Surprise of Huatulco

Our flight here was full of delays and confusion. The first time ever we've had lost luggage and delayed connections. The upshot is that I've been here for two days wearing the clothes on my back from Caledon where temp was 0 F, when the temp here is 30. Very hot, discombobulating and annoying. I have only my carry on backpack with camera, device cords and iPad.

So this is why I haven't posted sooner. I've been married by phone to Aeromexico , filing reports and so forth. Maybe the bag will still arrive and I will kiss the ground when it does. All my stuff for four weeks as well as Christmas presents is in the bag. Big nuisance.

The town is fun, energetic and most of the the tourists here are from other parts of Mexico. A few people speak English. You'll see photos of a parade honouring a saint, A few large, colourful characters and some interesting bits of nature.


        An odd character.


         School children in parade.







     The guys talking just the way guys do.


     Weaving on the main street.





    Making ice cream.



    Nature's art.



       Intricate tree.

We are off to Santa Cruz tomorrow. More to follow. Enjoy Christmas preparations!